South Australia has witnessed the closures of such high-end establishments as Chloe’s and Auge, Jock Zonfrillo’s Orana and the ambitious d’Arenberg Cube restaurant in the past decade.
Reasons are mixed – a pandemic and economic pressures among them – but through it all, Magill Estate Restaurant has stood tall, with executive chef Scott Huggins leading the kitchen since 2013.
Is there still a place for fine dining? If Magill Estate’s fully booked dining room on this Saturday evening is anything to go by, the answer is a resounding yes.
Penfolds’ flagship restaurant is perched above the winery’s iconic vineyards in Adelaide’s foothills, surrounded by the winery’s historic buildings and sleek cellar door.
It’s almost a shame to not be able to take in those views at night, though the reflective floor-to-ceiling windows create a striking illusion; the restaurant’s spherical ceiling lights seemingly extending well beyond the physical walls of the space.
There’s a sense of formality, but it’s not stiff. No white tablecloths, no silver platters; no formal suits or gowns. Contemporary fine dining is, largely, more convivial; arguably, more enjoyable. And that’s reflected across the floor, among the celebratory groups and couples, marking birthdays, anniversaries and achievements. As far as special occasion restaurants go, Magill ranks highly.
The option to start with a drink in the lounge is enticing, though with no one else in that section of the restaurant – cordoned off by a curtain – it lacks energy. Carpets and lounges beg for an upgrade and that curtain droops unevenly. But the inbuilt bar and temperature-controlled wine wall, showcasing Penfolds’ drops dating back to the 1950s, still makes for an impressive statement. Cocktails, too, are on point – a smoky negroni a memorable option for a chilly night.
That chill is felt in the dining room, the wintry rain setting in now. Things take a moment to settle: an incorrect drink poured at the table causing confusion and delay with our own drinks ordering. Before we know it, the degustation begins with a steady stream of bite-sized “snacks”, which demonstrate the passion and technique of Huggins and his team. There’s a bit of fun, a bit of foam, and a healthy dose of smoke.
A crisp potato “dumpling” bursts with umami-rich parmesan cream, and is topped with grated black truffle. It’s an exciting start – think, a teeny potato croquet that packs all the satisfaction of a big one.
This leads to “the” crumpet: Huggins’ bougie take on the breakfast favourite; a mainstay on the menu since the start. Only now, there are other restaurants who’ve adopted the idea – Norwood’s arkhé among them. At Magill, it’s finished at the table with trout butter and vibrant orange roe. It might not feel new anymore, but it’s still perfectly snackable.
Five more petite plates arrive simultaneously for us to graze, though it’s suggested we approach them warm-to-cold. They range from the crowd-favourite deboned chicken wing stuffed with lobster and scallop, brushed with a thickened “dumpling sauce”, right through to an oyster with smoked Jerusalem artichoke foam. A chicken skin tartlet would benefit from a touch more seasoning, but appropriately carries the heat of a horseradish cream.
Waitstaff are amiable, though scripts can feel a touch formulaic. Dishes begin to increase in size – a highlight, the “shellfish ragu”, showcasing mussels, KI abalone and Smoky Bay oysters. It’s a deceivingly complex dish; the seafood sitting in a pool of lactic koji and clam butter, topped with shavings of fresh Brussels sprouts from the on-site garden and edible flowers. It’s equally delicious as it is satisfying to eat.
Housemade sourdough bread is given hero status as its own course, served with four different butters, while heartier courses include venison, and a slightly dry duck and beetroot tart.
The real showstopper is, of course, the wine. What separates Magill from other restaurants is the unique opportunity to experience the breadth of the world-renowned portfolio at Penfolds, either through a curated wine pairing ($210 or $350) or by-the-glass. You might compare, say, the 2005 vintage of the revered St Henri Shiraz with a 2004 Magill Estate Shiraz, the latter crafted from grapes grown just a stone’s throw away from your seat. It’s a remarkable example of how a single variety can taste so different. Be prepared to splurge, though – by-the-glass options cost upwards of $40.
Sweet-tooths also are well catered for. Rhubarb picked from behind the Grange cottage is cooked down and topped with stracciatella and zingy sorbet. Seasoned with olive oil, pepper berry and lavender that grows in abundance on site, it’s a fresh and mature dessert. At the other end of the spectrum is a very smoky, whiskey caramel and chocolate ensemble. And just when you can’t fit in any more, out comes a beautiful selection of petit fours.
Fine dining isn’t what it used to be. It’s better. While the past few years have seen the closure of several high-end establishments, they’ve also ushered in a new era of elevated yet relaxed dining. Think Restaurant Botanic, which claimed the title of Australia’s Best Restaurant in 2022, and Bird in Hand’s LVN. Maxwell’s flagship cellar door restaurant is another standout. Each offers its own take on refined dining in a world that still craves celebration – and a touch of luxury.
Chef: Scott Huggins
Cuisine: Fine dining, contemporary
Drinks: Penfolds’ wines and more
Cost: Signature menu $295, lunch tasting menu $230
Must try: Seafood ragu
Hot take: Take in the views at lunch
78 Penfold Rd, Magill
magillestaterestaurant.com
Open: Lunch Fri-Sun 12pm-3pm; Dinner Sat from 6pm
This article first appeared in the September 2025 issue of SALIFE magazine.